The “Houka-Hoko (float)” , which was restored by Tatsumura Art Texttile, will be unveiled to the public on July 17, 2023, during “Yamahoko-Junko (Parade)”, one of the highlights of the Kyoto Gion Festival 2023.
The “Shitamizuhiki (Ornamental brocade)”, originally created in the Edo period, has been restored to its original form by Tatsumura Art Textile, a Nishijin textile company in Kyoto, and its craftsmen over a period of eight years from 2015. In this article, we look at the thoughts of Tatsumura Art Textile that went into the revived this ceremony brocade.
What is Shitamizuhiki?
The curtains hung on the four decorative pillars from the beams around the roof of the floats during the Gion Festival are called shitamizuhiki, which are hung just below the ranbuchi and adorn the upper part of the body and front hangings. The shitamizuhiki of the houkahoko float, one of the highlights of the Gion Festival, is said to have been made about 244 years ago. It is a hanging decoration for which the painter and haiku poet Yosa Buson (1716-1784) made preliminary drawings and applied gorgeous Kyoto embroidery in the Edo period.
Since its creation in the Edo period (1603-1867), the original sewage tie has been a part of the history of the Gion Festival. Now, Tatsumura Bijutsu Orimono has restored and renewed it to its original form, and it will be on display to the public during this year’s Yamahoko-junko procession.
the north
the east
the west
the south
The newly restored sewage tie is a set of four pieces, just like the original. The design depicting Chinese literati enjoying “Koto,” “Go,” and “Calligraphy” by Yosa Buson has been reproduced by hand embroidery, with the colors and designs of the missing parts clarified through period research and investigation of the lining.
Tradition and spirit of Kyoto conveyed through textiles
Since its establishment in 1894 in Kyoto, the site of the Gion Festival, Tatsumura Bijutsu Orimono has maintained the basic spirit of “originality and restoration” and “the highest quality” in its desire to produce “art textiles. This intention is also shared in the restoration and renewal of the Houkahoko sewing cloth introduced in this article. We asked Ikumi Tatsumura, president and representative director of the company, who has been closely involved with craftsmen who carry on the traditions of Kyoto and the Houkahoko Preservation Society, about his thoughts behind the production.
― How did you go about creating the Shitamizuhiki?
Iku Tatsumura, President and Representative Director of Tatsumura Bijutsu Orimono (hereinafter referred to as “Tatsumura”)：
Since the new sewing machines in 1990, Tatsumura Bijutsu Orimono has been commissioned to repair, renew, and restore almost every type of suspension weaving.
In particular, since the establishment of the Tatsumura Art Dyeing and Embroidery Techniques Preservation Society in 1989, we have been working more closely with the Gion Festival, and due to our relationships with several towns before that, we have received requests for hanging ornaments for the floats of several towns.
The restoration and renewal of the sewage floats was completed at a pace of one piece every two years over a period of about eight years starting in 2015.
― It was not a simple task to restore a textile produced in 1779. What were some of the innovations you made?
Tatsumura: We conducted period research based on literati paintings from the same period. We observed the backs of the embroidered parts and collected the original colors.
Specifically, we meticulously researched the techniques, designs, and color schemes used at the time of production, checked the colors in the gaps between the stitches, and examined the color schemes and thread usage from the reverse side.
I believe that we were able to take advantage of our expertise in period research and cultural asset restoration supervision by using every embroidery technique available.
― What is the size of the Shitamizuhiki?
Tatsumura: The east-west side is 3,500 wide x 745 high, and the north-south side is 2,710 wide x 745 high (mm).
Two members of the Tatsumura Art Dyeing and Embroidery Technique Preservation Society worked on the embroidery process as artisans.
― Do you have any behind-the-scenes stories about the production process?
Tatsumura: Please note that the eyes of the person have been redone many times.
― What was the reaction of the Houkahoko Preservation Society and the local and national press to your presentation before the public?
Tatsumura: The Houkahoko Preservation Society said, “We are very satisfied with the work, which was completed after 50 to 60 meetings of discussion and debate. I am looking forward to the parade on July 17. I am glad I entrusted the work to Tatsumura Art & Textile. We had a hard time with the eyes of the figures, but it was worth the effort. The workmanship of the eyes of the people was a challenge, but the result is very good.
― What were the most frequently asked questions at the presentation before the public?
龍村：’Are they all made of embroidery?’ That’s right. The ground (ground) part is also embroidered and uses real gold thread. Also, you asked about the total project cost, which is 180 million yen.
― What do you think about the mission and significance of passing on traditions to the next generation?
Tatsumura: We would like to continue to receive orders for restoration and renewal of Gion Festival ornaments to raise the level of our company’s technical capabilities and to pass on skills, especially by entrusting them to young craftspeople. We would like to respond to the passion of people throughout Japan who want to preserve the unique culture of Japan.
― What kind of people and generations would you like to pass on and connect the “Japanese Vibrancy” to in the future?
Tatsumura: The younger generation, people from overseas.
Yamahoko Junko (procession of floats) will be held on July 17.
Kyoto’s Gion Festival is one of Japan’s three major festivals with a history of over 1,000 years. This year, the festival is scheduled to be held on the same scale as before the Corona Disaster and is expected to attract many domestic and international tourists.
The first half of the month-long Gion Festival (July 1-31) will take place on July 17 (Monday, national holiday), when the Yamahoko-junko procession will be performed and the Sewer Festival floats will be widely displayed to the public. Please take note of the Houkahoko-junko, which is a procession of floats that connects the spirit of the Kyoto townspeople in the midst of a changing and shifting world, and the “sewage floats” that decorate the procession.
◼️ related product
・related productBrocade Art (Gion Festival)：https://shop.tatsumura.co.jp/en/collections/all/products/976
・Related Feature “Introduction of FESTIVAL BROCADE”：https://www.tatsumura.co.jp/en/products/kesouhin/
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◼️ General Public Overview
Mae-matsuri Yamahoko procession date and time: July 17, 2023, 9:00 a.m. – Departure of each town in order of lotteries
Scheduled starting point of the procession: Near Shijo-Karasuma intersection
Gion Matsuri Yamaboko Federation official website：http://www.gionmatsuri.or.jp/
Kyoto City Tourism Association official site “Gion Festival” page：https://ja.kyoto.travel/event/major/gion/